Sun dancing in Telluride

Telluride is tucked away in a box canyon; a treasure you have to seek. And once you are there, you realise you really have struck it rich … just like Butch Cassidy way back in 1895. Back then he robbed a bank to hit the big time, but today, it is skiers and snowboarders who find that pot of gold. Put simply, Telluride is incredibly, magnificently, awesome.

There is a big list of celebrities that are fans of Telluride, the biggest being Tom Cruise. He has a house here and flies his private jet in when he pleases. Oprah bought here last year, Ralph Lauren’s massive Double RL Ranch is just outside of town, and you are quite likely to run into Darryl Hannah, who actually lives here and is a true local. What’s interesting is that no-one cares who is who. You could be sitting next to Jerry Seinfeld, a famous movie producer, Jack Nicholson, Dennis Quaid, Laura Linney or Dan Quayle and there will be no airs and graces. Everyone is there to enjoy one thing – Telluride and its exceptional snow-clad mountains.

Take your pick of Telluride town, which is on the canyon floor, or Mountain Village, which is up on the ridge at 2895 metres. The two towns are linked by a free gondola which is a tourist attraction in its own right. The view down from the Mountain Village to the town is gob smackingly gorgeous.

The skiing

Telluride Ski Resortis mind-blowing.It offers skiing that is out of this world no matter what level you are – and there not that many places that can say that and live up to the hype. You could be an absolute beginner here and have just as good a time as those that throw themselves down double blacks. The Resort has 18 lifts servicing over 120 trails spread out over a vast area. We checked out the runs off the Village Express chair, the main access up the mountains from the Mountain Village. The Polar Queen was a veritable playground with plenty of blues for happy intermediates while Gold Hill Express gives access to one of my favourite spots, Revelation Bowl. The Majestic run is sensational and lives up to its name, while Silvercloud is also spectacular. Prospect Express takes you up to terrain for all levels, from beginner green to double blacks and extreme skiing on Palmyra Peak. Also do the Galloping Goose – Telluride’s longest run at a calf-tearing 7.4 kms. It’s an easy green run that is a bit like a scenic tour, taking you past some of the houses, under bridges and back to the Chondola lift – a combination of chairlift and gondola – which links back up with the Mountain Village.

When we first arrived and looked at the runs down from the Mountain Village to the town of Telluride, they looked too steep, but soon we were whizzing down the Plunge and skiing all the way down to the town. When we were staying in the condo in Telluride town, we came up the Coonskin lift in the mornings and, in the afternoons, we could ski straight down to our door. What an experience.

The dining on the mountain is outstanding. Laze in a deckchair with a local brew at Gorrono Ranch and listen to live music. For something really special book in at Alpino Vino up the mountain, and I mean up. It is so good you will pinch yourself to make sure it’s really happening. Bon Vivant is another great place on the mountain for lunch or a drink at the sun-drenched bar.

The two towns

The town of Telluride is tucked away in the box canyon surrounded by the rugged and steep San Juan Mountains. The town is a National Historic District and is a showcase of charming Victorian architecture. The preserved downtown area is a great combination of restaurants, boutiques, bars and galleries, and you can walk from end to end with no trouble. If your legs are tired from skiing, there is a free shuttle bus called the Galloping Goose. Being an old silver mining town there is plenty of history, with the magnificent old New Sheridan Hotel a must. Almost everything is original – it’s fantastic for a drink before or after dinner. Check out the Opera House as well – a lot of celebs raised money for it, including Mel Gibson, according to the thank you plaques on the floor. You can see the exact spot where Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank. Find the plaque on the door of the Mahr Building.

Mountain Village is where most of the accommodation is, with a host of excellent properties to choose from. Most are ski-in, ski-out and are centred around European-style piazzas, fringed by shops, restaurants, firepits and one has an ice rink. Take your pick of condos, hotels, luxury homes and lodges, with some of the world’s best skiing at your doorstep. Sit by the firepit and watch the action on the ice rink, or have a go yourself

Where to stay

Hotel Madeline, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, is in Mountain Village and the service is seamless and slick. Our three-bedroom apartment was superb and for budding chefs, the kitchen top of the line. As I am not a budding chef, it stayed pristine and unused. We loved the downstairs lounge, and collapsed into the comfy lounges after skiing a few times. The location is a real winner – so close to everything. If you prefer small boutique properties, Lumiére is divine. The 18 residences and 11 hotel rooms are impeccably styled.

We also stayed in a condo booked through Telluride Mountain Lodging. We chose a four-bedroom condo in Cimarron Lodge, and were delighted to find we were mere steps from the bottom of the Coonskin chairlift. We could ski pretty much to our door, the ski hire shop as steps away, as was the lift ticket office. In the evenings, we could enjoy the ten-minute stroll to the historic main street, or catch the free, Galloping Goose bus service. We even did a grocery shop online before we left home, and found everything nicely put away in our condo when we arrived.