Review: Sailing in French Polynesia with Windstar

Sailing To the Land of Men

Sailing in French Polynesia is always spectacular. When a cyclone meant a change of course for Windstar Cruises’ Star Breeze, the remote Marquesas was an unexpected pleasure.

The bare-chested, artistically tattooed warrior moves ominously closer. He has an U’u (club) clenched in his hand and the decorative leaves around his feet swish with each foreboding step. Fortunately, he, along with the other warriors and the less fearsome ladies with grass skirts and beautiful headdresses, are showing us their culture at a Marquesan wedding in Hiva Oa, put on especially for two lovebirds from our ship.

It is quite surreal to even be in the Marquesas, known to locals as Fenua Inata – the Land of Men. We were not meant to be sailing to the most remote island archipelago in the world, yet here we are. A moody cyclone blew our intended French Polynesian cruise out the porthole, and the captain of the Star Breeze looked at the map and worked out that these islands were out of harm’s way. So, it was bon voyage to Rangiroa, Huahine, Raiatea and Taha’a, and ka oha – hello – to Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa.

Life’s a breeze

This trip was always going to be special. It was the first sailing for Star Breeze in the turquoise waters of her new home, French Polynesia, and my first cruise with Windstar. From the first sail away, with Vangelis’ stirring Conquest of Paradise playing, I was hooked.

Star Breeze – an all-suite ship – carries 310 guests on this trip (she can carry 332), and she is so easy to navigate. I love my roomy Balcony Suite and quickly sashay into Windstar life. Coffee in the Yacht Club at sunrise, lunch at The Star Grill, a sunset drink in the hot tub on the bow, and dinner at Candles, Cuadro 44 or Amphora, all the while chatting with new friends about our experiences that day. And there were many.

On Nuku Hiva, we loved that locals gathered to take all of us on a tour in a snaking convoy of 4WD’s over its rocky ridges overlooking pristine bays and through the Tapivai valley awash with wild tangles of vegetation. We bought beautiful local jewellery from a village market – the Marquesans are known for their intricate carving – and marvelled at the traditional song and dance of the island during a cultural presentation, including the Haka Manu – Bird Dance.

 

While Nuku Hiva is known as Herman Melville’s home for a time – the author of Moby Dick – Hiva Oa was home and the final resting place for Paul Gauguin and Belgian crooner Jacques Brel. We paid our respects to them at the cemetery on the hill and visited their respective museums, before going for a swim off the black sand beach. A tour to the Upeke archaeological site, which is only partially cleared, is fascinating, with ancient tikis, tales of ceremonies past and a sacred banyan tree all playing a role in the culture that is still strong today. A culture on full display with the song and dance of the Hiva Oa warriors, who are all smiles for the thrum of visitors who came for a surprise visit.

Planting memories

Leaving the wilds of the Marquesas behind, with nature’s fragrant flora blooming, from mangos to coconut palms, and the in-demand noni fruit known for its immune boosting properties, we cruise to Bora Bora with its mystical peaks, but with the water still stirred up by the cyclone, we don’t get to swim with stingrays or snorkel with black-tipped reef sharks. We do get to explore Moorea. I love the view from Belvedere Lookout, exploring the ancient site of Opunohu, and more importantly, learn that planting is not just reserved for on land.

 

Windstar Cruises partners with Moorea-based non-profit Coral Gardeners, who are working to restore the oceans, one coral at a time. Coral Gardeners are the ‘voice of the ocean’, planting well over 100,000 corals so far. They are also innovators, coming up with new technologies to monitor, photograph and check the health of corals. Like all guests on Windstar Cruises’ six ships, I can – and do – opt in to donate US$35 to adopt a coral through Coral Gardeners. Guests can also see the work Coral Gardeners are doing first hand on one of two experiences in Moorea, snorkelling to see the coral nurseries or diving in one of the ocean gardens.

GETTING THERE

Fly to Papeete via Auckland with Air New Zealand. Play close attention to the time difference when booking. airnewzealand.com.au

WHERE TO STAY

Due to flight arrival times, you may need to stay overnight before and after your cruise. Two great options are Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts and InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa. letahiti.com; tahiti.intercontinental.com

CRUISING

Windstar has several itineraries in French Polynesia, including the Tahitian Treasures & Magnificent Marquesas. windstarcruises.com

*This story first appeared in Vacations & Travel magazine.