Secret Japan: Expert Tips for Travelling Beyond Tokyo and Kyoto

Japan expert Jane Lawson shares her favourite hidden destinations, cultural tips and regional food experiences in her new book, Secret Japan. From Shikoku to Fukuoka, discover where to go beyond Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

After more than four decades of travelling through Japan, Jane Lawson still finds herself surprised.

The author, food writer and Japan specialist has been visiting the country for 43 years, has lived there several times and estimates she has made well over 50 trips. Yet every journey reveals something new.

Jane’s books started off being very food centric, as she was a chef previously. “I moved to Kyoto and wrote a book called Zenbu Zen, which was about my experience learning about Japanese food culture. And I’ve also written a book called Tokyo Style Guide. And that was more of a kind of where to go, what to see in Tokyo.”

According to Jane, this one goes much deeper. This is about how to truly be in Japan and see Japan and understand Japan in an easy way. It just allows you real insight into a country that is actually hard to see properly unless you know what to look for.”

It’s this deeper, less obvious side of the country that inspired her latest book, Secret Japan, a guide that encourages travellers to venture beyond the bright lights of Tokyo and the temples of Kyoto to discover the experiences, traditions and communities that many visitors miss. Jane covers itineraries and things to do in all 47 prefectures.

“Japan has several faces,” Lawson says. “You don’t really get to know it until you look beyond the surface.”

Lesson time

Her fascination with the country began at age 15. Having studied Japanese at school, she embarked on her first overseas trip with her mother and brother, visiting destinations such as Tokyo, Kyoto and Hakone.

“I instantly fell in love with the place,” she recalls. “Everything was different – the sights, the sounds, the energy. It was unlike anything I’d ever experienced.”

That first encounter sparked a lifelong connection.

While many travellers are drawn to Japan’s famous attractions, Lawson believes the country’s true magic often lies elsewhere – in tiny family-run restaurants, remote mountain villages, regional food traditions and chance encounters with locals.

It’s also found in the country’s remarkable attention to detail.

“The Japanese take enormous pride in whatever they do,” she says. “Whether it’s a simple bowl of noodles or a Michelin-starred meal, the same level of care and dedication goes into it.”

The Best Food Experiences in Japan

Food has long been one of Lawson’s gateways into understanding Japan. A former chef, she has written several books on Japanese cuisine and culture, and believes dining offers a window into the country’s values.

Visitors often focus on what they’re eating, but Lawson encourages them to pay equal attention to how it is served.

“Dining in Japan is about being present,” she says. “There’s beauty in the way food is prepared, presented and enjoyed. It’s a very mindful experience.”

“Whether you’re in a restaurant or anywhere in Japan, it’s about being respectful of the place that you’re in and kind of setting aside expectation and actually resetting your intention.”

“That’s really an inherent part of the culture. “No matter what it is, whether it’s a burger or Michelin star, the love, the passion, the dedication, the care that goes into everything you eat and the way it is served to you is beyond any other country that I’ve ever been to. Hospitality is a key thing in Japan. It’s very, very important to do your absolute best when it comes to looking after your customers.”

Among her favourite dishes is yakitori – charcoal-grilled chicken skewers cooked with extraordinary precision over glowing coals. She also has a soft spot for Kyoto’s goma tofu, a silky sesame-based Buddhist dish that can be served chilled or lightly fried until crisp on the outside and creamy within.

Yet some of her favourite discoveries have come not from restaurants but from Japan’s lesser-known regions.

One destination she believes deserves far more attention is Shikoku, Japan’s smallest main island. Separated from the mainland until bridges were built in the late 20th century, Shikoku has retained a distinct character and culture.

“It’s very different to what most people imagine Japan to be,” Lawson says.

Visitors will find dramatic mountain scenery, winding coastal roads, exceptional seafood and a slower pace of life. Local communities remain deeply connected to the land, while family-run restaurants and small farms offer authentic encounters rarely found on the standard tourist trail.

Is Fukuoka Japan’s Most Underrated City?

Another favourite is Fukuoka, the gateway city to Kyushu. While often overlooked by international visitors, Lawson describes it as one of Japan’s most liveable and rewarding cities.

“It has everything,” she says. “Fantastic food, beautiful temples, a great coffee culture and easy access to nature.”

From artisan pottery towns and coastal cycling routes to forested hiking trails and centuries-old shrines, the region offers endless opportunities for exploration.

For Lawson, these destinations represent the essence of what she calls “secret Japan” – not hidden in the sense that nobody knows about them, but overlooked by travellers who never stray beyond the country’s most famous stops.

Her message to visitors is simple: slow down.

Spend time in regional towns. Sit at the counter of a tiny restaurant. Talk to locals. Follow a recommendation that isn’t in the guidebook.

The reward, she says, is a richer understanding of a country that continues to reveal itself, no matter how many times you return.

And after more than 40 years of exploring Japan, Lawson would know.

“The more you see,” she says, “the more you realise there’s always something new to discover.”

TIPS:

In this book you’ll find some fascinating tips:

How to read a Japanese garden

Avoid wearing perfume, cologne and aftershave on public transport, in restaurants or food facilities

Know how to bow

Only hug someone if they hug you first

Secret Japan is published by Simon and Schuster.